Pairing Up at Vintage 414
The scene on Race Street in historic downtown Cambridge is urban hipster meets rural small town, with a mix of shops and restaurants and enough charm and grit and history to satisfy even the most seasoned traveler. Odes to its past are seen in Craig’s Pharmacy, a town mainstay for over 150 years, and the Art Deco Tolley Theater dating from the 1920s. That theme continues with the town’s newest addition, Vintage 414, a wine bar and shop helmed by two of the area’s most seasoned professionals, Natalie Brewer and Emily Salisbury.
Natalie and Emily met over ten years ago while working for Bistro Poplar where Natalie served as the general manager and Emily as the restaurant’s pastry chef. Natalie has worked in the hospitality industry for over two decades developing her knowledge of wine, beer and spirits. Emily started her culinary career working with the late Chef Michel Richard at his famed Washington, DC restaurant Citronelle.
When the pair saw The Wine Bar on Race Street closing after occupying the space since the early aughts, Emily and her husband decided to buy the building and continue the wine bar concept. A third team member, Colleen Hughes, a graduate of the Dorchester Career and Technical Center Culinary Program, joined as sous chef.
While any restaurant opening can be a nerve-wracking adventure, opening during a once-in-a-century pandemic is something else altogether. For the team at Vintage 414 it required determination and flexibility.
“Anyone in the restaurant business has to be a bit crazy. We all know this about ourselves,” says Natalie with a laugh. “But opening a business in the middle of a worldwide pandemic . . . let’s just say we’re doing our best to adjust, just like everyone else. Everything we carry in-house, from retail wine, beer and specialty foods to our full menu is also available online for curbside pick-up. We can provide contactless service, which is very important to us.”
The menu includes snacks and small plates, salads, cheeseboards, and house-made desserts. Dishes are bright in color with a nod to seasonal ingredients, and heartier fare like the pork sausage flatbread with smoked gouda and cheddar remains a mainstay on the menu year-round.
“Anyone who knows me who comes in here says, ‘it’s like eating at your house,’” says Emily, whose desserts offer a bit of the unexpected. Like the olive oil cake with a note of lemon verbena. And her caramelized white chocolate cheesecake that carries a hint of ginger in the graham cracker crust finished with peach compote. The menu is planned, prepared and executed with an emphasis on the unusual.
“We compose cheeseboards to give our guests the opportunity to experience various components to complement each cheese,” says Emily. “Luckily, so far, everyone seems to enjoy them as much as we do.”
Emily’s popular beet hummus, Roquefort spread, and stuffed peppers (all made in-house), have been made available for purchase along with imported Swiss chocolates, wine-flavored salts and jams, and beer-flavored pretzels. And don’t miss Emily’s rice crispy treats, chocolate sable cookies, cheddar cheese shortbread and bags of sweet and salty nuts. All complement the Old World and New World wines and domestic craft beers that have been carefully selected with the expertise and care of individuals whose love of food and wine is evident throughout the spacious interior.
Like an expert sommelier, Natalie asks questions to match the person to the wine while gently offering suggestions for those interested in trying something new, or not. The more traditional palates will be as contented as the more adventurous; the big Napa Valley Cab lover as satisfied as her partner trying a small batch Albariño.
“We like to encourage our guests to try new things,” says Natalie. “When we look for a pinot noir, we look for something beyond the classic profile. And there are so many varietals out there that are reasonably priced, our goal is to find the gems. We also favor vineyards that are organic and sustainable with lower production levels, meaning more care goes into each bottle.”
The tables and bar in the open, modern space are ready for more guests when pandemic restrictions allow, eager to try one of Natalie’s famous cocktails. You’ll also find a range of craft beer offerings unavailable at most local bars and liquor stores, which can be made into a 6-pack on the spot.
“You’ll see more than IPAs on our shelves,” says Natalie.
The women of Vintage 414 consider their new adventure an addition to the ever-growing options available in an area fast becoming a dining destination. With space that’s colorful and welcoming, the displays of wine and beer complement the vintage tins and utensils sharing shelf space. The aesthetic is clean minimalist with enough inventory to encourage browsing and dialogue. Questions are happily answered and there is no hard sell.
“Here, let me get you a taste,” Natalie often starts the conversation. “If you don’t like it, it won’t hurt my feelings.” Her recommendation is a hit after one sip, and there are no worries about hurt (or unhurt) feelings as a bottle is ordered for the table.
Vintage 414
414 Race Street, Cambridge, Maryland
410.228.4042, Facebook
