A Fire in the Heart of Easton
In over two decades cities can be left to decay or (re)built, economies can collapse or flourish, wars can start or end, trends can appear and disappear (several times), and relationships can transpire and thrive, or wither and die. A lot can happen in that time, and when something is built with a plan and a passion to benefit a community, it becomes something reliable and appealing, and cherished by those it serves. Over the last 20+ years, one Easton restauranteur has done just that, building a local gem and keeping a loyal following with a fresh farm-to-table menu and a wine list filled with small batch gems from all over the world.
When Amy Haines, owner of Out of the Fire, moved from California to Easton in 1998, she had some ideas about dining. Always having enjoyed cooking for family and friends, she envisioned a restaurant with a wood-fired oven at its heart, serving delicious local food and wine.
“Being in southern and northern California and having access to good, local cuisine was great,” says Haines. “Healthful and fresh was important to me, plus using as many local ingredients as possible.”
The idea of an open kitchen with a stone hearth oven being the focal point grew, and when Haines found her spot on Goldsborough Street in historic downtown Easton, her inspiration took off and Out of the Fire was born.
Chef Chris Berger, like many of the staff at Out of the Fire, has been with Haines for many years. Pulling from a variety of distinct influences, Berger’s dishes are all originals. Committed to memory with a few tweaks here and there to accommodate local ingredients and new taste profiles, his recipes are, in a sense, the chef’s intellectual property, something personal and cherished.
“Chris has an extraordinary and distinctive palate,” says Haines. “How he pulls together textures and flavors, it’s a perfect balance when executed. The entire process starts in his mind, the idea of a dish. He engages so many facets of his creative process. He’s truly an artist.”
This summer, a dinner menu addition is a crunchy cauliflower salad with hakurei turnips, napa cabbage, chick peas, shallots, feta, roasted pistachios, chermoula (a north African condiment/marinade, typically made with garlic, cilantro, parsley, sea salt, cumin, paprika, coriander, cayenne, oil olives, and lemon juice) and finished with soury, a Lebanese olive oil. The chocolate focaccia à la mode dessert—cocoa-infused focaccia bread with coffee ice cream covered in a smoked caramel sauce with hazelnuts—was a work in progress until smoked sea salt added the perfect final note.
Out of the Fire’s wine list is comprised of varietals rather than the standard grapes, and many come from smaller producers.
“We seek out wineries that are deeply rooted in their community and have a certain level of integrity on how they treat their soil,” says Haines. “Their practices are important. We don’t carry any big labels. There are so many nice wines out there and wineries that deserve to be supported.”
Over the years, Haines has sought out relationships with local producers, including area artists whose work adorns the restaurant’s walls, giving the space the mood of an art gallery. (Much of the work is available for sale.) Building a place for everyone to gather and enjoy a meal, Haines and her team are visualizing a future that looks a little different. With the past year’s pandemic, Out of the Fire, like many restaurants, made some changes to its business by not only offering carry-out but creating a new online market.
“We have been talking about it for a while and one day Chris came to me and Jed [St. Landau, sous chef] and said: ‘Okay, let’s do this’ so the three of us sat down and listed things we could offer to the market,” says Haines. “The pandemic forced us to think about the future of in-house dining and figuring out other revenue streams. We’re changing the model of the restaurant with a new location that will offer plenty of outdoor seating.” Haines plans a move to 111 South Washington Street in the year ahead.
The Out of the Fire Market offers some customer favorites—stone hearth-baked breads (focaccia, ciabatta, sourdough), harissa, olive tapenade, Federal Brewing kombucha, beet puree, olive oil, nitrate-free bacon, and their famous Tahini chocolate decadence cake—to order online. Pick-ups are available on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Time and again, the restaurant has been asked for its recipes. A big venture for a very busy chef, especially one who cooks in large batches and adjusts, modifies and adapts constantly. A cookbook is being considered, but for the time being, guests can relax and enjoy someone else’s cooking. (We did, however, convince them to share their sangria, a local favorite!)
Haines’ philosophy perfectly encapsulates Julia Child’s words: The comforts of life’s essentials—food, fire, and friendships.
Out of the Fire Restaurant & Market
22 Goldsborough Street, Easton, MD 21601
(410) 770-4777
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