Perfect Timing: Chef Gregory James and the Inn at Perry Cabin
On a mid-week afternoon, while the kitchen staff at the Inn at Perry Cabin are serving late lunch to guests and prepping for dinner, Executive Chef Gregory James grabs a few minutes to head down to the dock and check the crab pots anchored at the end of the boat slips (full of beautiful blue Maryland crabs), then zips over to the extensive garden plots to assess the peppers and society garlic (in full bloom), check the beehives and compost operation (humming along), and back to the kitchen to select fresh fish for the menu.
James, who was named 2022 Chef of the Year by the Restaurant Association of Maryland and is known for his sustainable approach to modern cuisine, is full of purpose and pride at each stop. As he wraps up his fourth season leading the culinary program at the Inn, he shares a clear sense that so much more lies ahead.
“The last few years have flown by, and we’ve made lots of progress” says James. “But I’m so inspired by this location and this community that my wish list is longer now than it was when I arrived.”
The right place
With a stunning 26-acre location in St. Michaels, Maryland, on the Miles River along the eastern Chesapeake Bay, the Inn at Perry Cabin is a world-class destination resort with a long history. Built on land granted to naval officer Samuel Hambleton for his service in the War of 1812, and named for his longtime friend Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, the naval-themed “Perry’s Cabin” served as an estate farm until the 1950s. After changing hands, in 1980 the Inn at Perry Cabin opened its doors as a small holiday resort. Over the following decades, the Inn grew in both size and reputation, continuing to honor its nautical heritage while earning numerous awards for its spectacular setting and first-class services.
In early 2019, Swiss-born Michael Hoffmann (above, far right), a luxury hotelier with over 30 years of experience, was appointed Managing Director of Perry Cabin Resorts & Golf, charged with spearheading innovation, growth, and expansion across the resort. As he searched for a leader with the vision and skills to transform culinary operations at the Inn, at the same time across the country Chef Gregory James, an award-winning executive chef, was searching for the right opportunity to build a world-class program. From their first meeting, Hoffmann and James clicked right away.
“Fit has become a far greater component to building a strong team than ever before,” says Hoffmann. “I like to ask what’s not on your resume – such as your thoughts on servant leadership and what books you’re reading.” Hoffmann knew James was the right fit, and he joined the team in mid-2019.
The right time
With an entrepreneurial spirit and a strong work ethic, Gregory James Wiener, 44, knew from the start he’d be in the hospitality business. His father, Joe, was a talented accountant but cooking was his passion and eventually he opened a restaurant in the family’s hometown of Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin. Young Greg, who also had a knack for numbers, had started working at a local fast-food spot at 15 and by 17 was assistant manager. When his dad’s place opened, he went to work in the business along with his three siblings.
“My dad loved feeding people and making happy memories for them,” says James, who was also drawn to the creative process involved in of growing and preparing food. A prized possession as a teen was his copy of Thomas Keller’s iconic 1999 The French Laundry Cookbook, which he pored over for inspiration and gained an appreciation for detail and precision. The tome remains proudly - much-loved and well-worn - on his bookshelf today.
James headed to the Culinary Institute of America at 19, and then honed his kitchen and leadership skills at high-end restaurants and hotels in Minneapolis, Phoenix (where he earned Best Chef of the Year kudos), Charleston, S.C., and the Napa Valley. In search of an opportunity to build a program with a partner that shared his passion for producing and preparing beautiful food, his dedication to local sourcing, and his commitment to mentorship, the Inn at Perry Cabin offered deep roots, strong bones, and a leader in Hoffmann who shared his dream of building a Michelin Star rated, James Beard Award winning program.
The right people
Moving east from the Napa Valley, James worked to hire a team (the staff has grown from just 9 to 35 culinarians), set up kitchen operations, explore the menu at STARS restaurant and the other dining locations at the Inn, and get to know the local purveyors of everything from beef to produce to seafood to honey.
A passionate advocate for local watermen and farmers, James brings the rich bounty of the Chesapeake Bay and neighboring farms right to the table. He has a growing number of local partnerships, which have led to the development of proprietary cheese and a specially brewed beer, as well as a selection of local beef and harvesting of oysters.
That first year was a steep learning curve for James, with some hits (his Oyster Stew earned top honors at the 2019 Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum Oyster Fest) and misses (changing the shape of the crab cake didn’t go over well with longtime customers), as well as laying plans for the on-site kitchen garden with the help of a local horticulturist. Fine-tuning continues in the garden, including the addition of beekeeping as well as soil sampling and the testing of heirloom produce and grains to yield the most flavorful seasonal dishes.
“My goal,” says James, “is to honor the flavors of the Chesapeake Bay with a light touch that unlocks the food’s natural profile.”
The right community
James’ passion for food extends to culinary education in the kitchen and beyond, coaching and mentoring his team, creating internship and externship programs, and collaborating with local high schools and colleges to encourage an interest in culinary careers. All culinarians rotate through each station, including dish duty, to fully appreciate each step that goes into serving a meal to their guests.
“I’m so proud of what this team has accomplished in the last few years,” says James. “Every person on the team is eager to learn and takes pride in their work. That synergy in the kitchen carries through to the front of the house and is critical to providing our guests the best experience possible.”
A bright future
Every element of the Inn at Perry Cabin experience – the beautifully tended grounds, the graceful public spaces, the impeccable service – feels both incredibly thoughtful and effortlessly elegant. For Michael Hoffmann, who defines luxury as “a sense of being looked after” and his own role as “sherpa-esque”, this is just the start of the journey.
“Chef James has created a superb and sustainable dining concept for resort guests and locals alike,” says Hoffmann. “He truly showcases the elevated Chesapeake Bay culinary scene.”
In the last few years, nearly every facet of the luxury experience at the Inn at Perry Cabin has been expanded and enhanced – from boating on the Chesapeake to world-class golfing to rejuvenation at the spa to refined rustic elegant dining. Even the outdoor private dining “houses”, an innovation launched during the pandemic, have now become dining options sited beautifully on the sloping lawn.
There is much more to come (think second hotel groundbreaking and a new role for the on-site lighthouse), the historic Inn at Perry Cabin strives to present an experience that, in James’ words, “sings in celebration of the Chesapeake and the Eastern Shore.” After more than 200 years, it’s perfect timing.
The Inn at Perry Cabin
308 Watkins Lane, St. Michaels, Maryland
(888) 805-8885
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