Whetting Wilmington’s Appetite
When the coronavirus hit Delaware in early 2020, some restaurateurs put projects on pause while others barreled ahead. And in between, savvy owners spotted opportunities. All three are evident in Wilmington, which has witnessed a flurry of activity since the pandemic’s start
Downtown District
Le Cavalier in the Hotel du Pont has earned the bulk of the buzz. The neo-brasserie has transformed the Green Room, the onetime grand dame of fine dining. The Green Room’s bones remain, including the crystal-and-gold chandeliers and rich paneling. Indeed, some original elements were exposed. Consider the hand-laid terrazzo floor, which complements the new marble-and-wood bar. Initially, the change raised locals’ eyebrows. But a year later, many guests fondly refer to the newbie as “Le Cav.” It helps that the chef and co-owner is Tower Hill School graduate Tyler Akin.
In Mid-Town Brandywine
Only a short walk from the hotel, another approachable eatery now occupies a former fine-dining spot. Dorcea moved into Domaine Hudson’s digs in early 2020. The owners — brothers Tony and Michael Bomba and John Ratliff — had dreamed of opening a restaurant for years. The future partners chatted about it at the Washington Street Ale House, where Tony had bartended since the late 1990s. Brother Michael oversaw the kitchen. They finally found the perfect location just down Washington Street.
Over the years, the slender building has been home to several restaurants, including a Mexican eatery. However, the upscale Domaine Hudson was the most enduring occupant. Tom and Meg Hudson opened the restaurant in 2005, and it aptly survived a change in ownership in 2011 when Beth and Mike Ross purchased it.
The footprint remains the same. However, owners took down walls that separated the dining room from the bar for a friendly feeling. Mounted TVs effectively banish the specter of a special occasion spot. Dorcea has found solid footing with Wilmington Hospital’s staff and area neighbors. Fans rave about the meatloaf, which is char-grilled and painted with a spicy tomato glaze. But what’s with the name? For hints, look at the dining room artwork and check out the drink menu.
Nearby, there’s a new deli in town. Rosenfeld’s Delicatessen opened in October 2020 in the old Harvest House on Washington Street. The flagship restaurant is in Ocean City, Maryland, and there’s a second site in Rehoboth Beach. To expand the concept, founder Warren Rosenfeld partnered with Big Fish Restaurant Group, which owns the Wilmington building. In 2022, a combination of a Big Fish Market and Rosenfeld’s Delicatessen will open in North Wilmington. The dual concept received a test run in South Bethany, where it debuted in spring 2021.
On the Riverfront
Speaking of Big Fish, managing partner Eric Sugrue wanted to put a Mexican concept near his Big Fish Grill on the Wilmington Riverfront. After years of fits and starts, he was ready to table the idea. Then Joe’s Crab Shack closed after 17 years on the riverfront, and Sugrue pounced on the opportunity. Taco Grande Mexigrill + Tequila Bar opened last summer with a menu full of tacos, burritos, enchiladas and quesadillas.
The Latin-infused eatery joins Del Pez Mexican Gastropub. The latter is owned by Hakuna Hospitality Group, which recently relocated Pachamama Rotisserie Chicken from Newark to the Riverfront Market. Along with chicken, the menu includes ribs, sandwiches and empanadas.
West of I-95
Hakuna’s founder, Javier Acuna, also opened Sante Fe Mexican Grill in the new 2000 Pennsylvania Avenue building. The restaurant was previously in the Galleria Shoppes, which were leveled to make way for the luxurious live-work-play project. Four years later, Santa Fe’s newest incarnation is more extensive and has parking garage access.
For something completely different, Goober’s Diner mines the past for a menu filled with the classics: Reubens, roasted meatloaf, patty melts and chicken croquettes. Naturally, breakfast is available all day. You can’t miss the building. It’s a two-story silver eyecatcher with neon trim.
Meanwhile, Park Café now occupies Moveable Feast’s former space. The café, which sells beer and wine, is part of Jamestown Hospitality Group, which owns Tonic Seafood & Steak in downtown Wilmington. You might not recognize the Wawaset Park establishment. Thanks to renovations, the dining room is more spacious, and the patio is a retreat, complete with pergola, porcelain tile and a privacy wall made with limestone boulders.
If it’s true good things come in small packages, then Ciro 40 Acres is proof. The brunch-oriented restaurant, which moved into De La Coeur Café et Pâtisserie’s space, is owned by Venu Gaddamidi and chef Michael DiBianca. They also have Ciro Food & Drink on the Wilmington Riverfront. While the first site has a cosmopolitan vibe, Forty Acres is a locals’ haven.
Around a few corners is Locale BBQ Post, which recently relocated from Little Italy. The pandemic prompted the move. Locale’s first location was so small that most people ordered carryout, and catering was the bulk of the business. The Trolley Square site became available when catering dried up during quarantine. Locale’s new home has a generously sized outdoor area and more room inside. Regardless of the timing, moving to the hip Trolley Square neighborhood is a “no-brainer,” maintains owner Dan Sheridan.
