The Cookshelf: Spring 2021

The Tahini Table
By Amy Zitelman with Andrew Schloss, Agate Publishing, $29

It might seem a stretch to focus a cookbook around a single ingredient, but University of Delaware alum Amy Zitelman, has managed it handily. Tahini, a nutritious and versatile paste made from sesame seeds, is also the focus of Zitelman’s business venture with her sisters, Philadelphia-based Soom Foods. The book starts with a primer on tahini, including how to stir and store it, though storing hardly seems necessary given the dizzying array of recipes in this collection. You might have already guessed that there are a few hummus recipes, but that’s just a start. Tahini’s nutty flavor lends itself to numerous variations of dressings, dips, and sauces that pair well with grains (Warm Tahini Grain Bowl), vegetables (Sweet Tahini Roasted Carrots), poultry (Tahini Chicken Schnitzel) and fish (Whole Baked Fish with Tahini, Sweet Garlic, and Pistachios). Tahini elevates baked goods and desserts -- Banana Bread, Sugar Cookies and Salted Caramel Sauce will never be the same! Easy-to-follow instructions, eye-catching photographs, and Zitelman’s enthusiasm for the virtues of tahini make this cookbook shine.

The Veggie Chinese Takeout Cookbook
By Kwoklyn Wan, Quadrille, $22.99

Kwoklyn Wan’s latest cookbook comes right on the heels of its meaty original, The Chinese Takeout Cookbook. He has an engaging personality as seen in the cooking videos he posts on his website. Wan’s restaurant pedigree comes from his father and grandfather. Both ran Chinese restaurants in England, and Wan says he can’t remember a time when he wasn’t cooking. It makes sense that his food is steeped in nostalgia. What’s nice about this book is that the ingredients are geared toward home cooks and are built on what Wan calls “the holy trinity”: ginger, garlic and scallions. Familiar takeout menu items dot the recipe landscape, all vegetable propelled (mushroom and cabbage filled Potstickers, an Eight Treasure Fried Rice that features canned and fresh vegetables, and Kung Po Cauliflower). Spice lovers can feast on Mapo Tofu or Crispy Chilli Cauliflower, each put together in under thirty minutes. Bright, colorful photos of each dish accompany clear instructions, making this book a fun exploration of Chinese takeout, veg-style.

COOKish: Throw it Together
By Christopher Kimball. Voracious, $35

After a year of finicky sourdough on the one extreme and take-out meals on the other, pandemic-weary home cooks might be looking for a middle road again. Enter Christopher Kimball’s COOKish: Throw It Together. Kimball was formally at the helm of America’s Test Kitchen, but the motto of Milk Street, his new venture, is to “change the way you cook.” So, what is COOKish, exactly? Less rules and fewer ingredients (six per recipe, not counting salt, pepper, oil and water). Many recipes have a global focus and therefore require a little extra effort when stocking the pantry (harissa, pickled ginger, oyster sauce, turmeric to name a few). Kimball thinks out of the box with technique and preparation, adapting from what he learned on his travels: vegetables are low-boiled, bone-in chicken is slashed to infuse more flavor and reduce cooking times, “risotto” is made with couscous, and so on. In less than thirty minutes and minimal fuss, you can serve up a steaming bowl of buttery Garlic Noodles with Shitake Mushrooms, Spanish- Style Meatballs, or Pulled Chicken with Tomatoes, Chilies and Cilantro.

Cool Beans: Cooking with the World’s Most Versatile Plant-Based Protein
By Joe Yonan,  Ten Speed Press, $30

Beans: what’s not to love? They are inexpensive, pantry-friendly, and power-packed with protein. So why don’t we eat more of them? Washington Post food editor and cookbook author Joe Yonan does his best to convince us we should. Beans are an ancient food and part of nearly every culture’s cuisine. They come fresh, canned, and dried in a multitude of shapes, sizes, textures and colors. Beans play a starring role in every recipe – even desserts! Yonan gently counters the negatives – lengthy cooking time (use an Instant Pot or pressure cooker), overnight soaking (not always necessary), and digestion issues (there are tips to help). He spoke with many bean-loving chefs, ate their food, and brought their ideas into this book with his own special twist. Recipes are vegetarian with substitutes to make them vegan. He pays homage to his upbringing with his take on Texas-Style Bowl O’ Red Beans. Lentil, Zucchini, and Cherry Tomato Sloppy Joes served with a side of sour pickles is both weeknight and family friendly. Fava, Ricotta, and Lemon Pizza is an ode to Spring. If there ever was a bean love story, this is it.

The Low-Proof Happy Hour: Real Cocktails Without the Hangover
By Jules Aron, The Countryman Press, $18.95

Holistic nutritionist and healthy beverage guru Jules Aron just published this little gem to bridge the gap for drinkers left stranded by abundance and drought, Now what? Lower-proof cocktails is one answer. Vermouth and sherry, both low on the alcohol by volume (ABV) scale, feature in many of the recipes. So do low-proof spirits like Japanese Shochu, which can be substituted for vodka. Aron also employs natural ingredients like botanicals, tea infusions, fresh herbs, fruit and citrus as flavoring agents. If you’ve had a Pimm’s Cup or Spritz recently, you are already sufficiently low-proofed. But what if you love martinis? Try the Reverse Martini (Julia Child was reportedly a fan) which essentially flips the proportions of gin and vermouth. This book is best appreciated by moderately accomplished home mixologists. It will also appeal to curious drinkers interested in what professional bartenders around the country are whipping up, like the Repour Bar’s aptly named drink All Night Long, which showcases Lillet Blanc, cucumber juice and ginger beer.

The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food
By Marcus Samuelsson, with Osayi Endolyn; Voracious, $38

Award-winning chef, restauranteur, and cookbook author Marcus Samuelsson’s new project is one to savor. With 150 recipes, it is absolutely a cookbook, yet so much more. He collaborates with James Beard award-winning writer Osayi Endolyn to feature the stories of dozens of Black chefs, creators, writers, activists and culinary experts. The result is food that is richly layered with memory, experience, and locale. Oyster Cucumber Shooters give a nod to Edouardo Jordan’s Pacific Northwest home. Tomato and Peach Salad with Okra, Radishes, and Benne Seed Dressing speaks to Shakirah Smiley’s commitment to food justice. Steak Afrique with Sauce Yassa honors Top Chef finalist Eric Adjepong. Corn and Crab Beignets (perfect Delmarva pairing!) are accompanied with an aioli seasoned with yaji, a West African spice blend. The book is dedicated in part to the legendary Leah Chase with a gumbo recipe.