Words and Photos Kurt Jacobson
Long-time Explore Delmarva contributor Kurt Jacobson shares a fond farewell as he heads to Colorado
For someone who grew up loving mountains, trout fishing, and 300 days of sunshine yearly, Delmarva was a foreign landscape. I remember my first trip from our new home in Perry Hall, Maryland, to St Michaels, where I noted, “This might be the flattest landscape I’ve ever seen”! It was unlikely that I’d fall in love with Delmarva. But I was hooked after a few short years of exploring Delmarva’s farms, small towns, beaches, and amazing artisanal food producers.
I want to share my fondest memories of so many trips that covered St Michaels, Chestertown, Whitehaven, Ocean City, Rehoboth Beach, Easton, and more. One of my favorite food memories is when I covered Evergrain Bakery in Chestertown. On that first trip, I met Douglas Rae, owner/baker, who wowed me with his bread-baking skills. His pastry chef was Sarah Deale, who turned out the best croissants I’d had since my last trip to Paris. Evergrain holds a top ten spot in my favorite bakeries, and I will miss them dearly when we move back to Colorado in March 2025.
Small Town Pleasures
Just outside of Chestertown is the Brampton Inn, a historic Victorian home. I enjoyed two visits, one to spend the night and try their delicious breakfast and another visit in the fall for a special dinner. My conversations with owner Dave Rinehart revealed his deep affection for this special property and the labor of love to keep it in prime condition.
The Hummingbird Inn has become our favorite place to take our dog Sophie. Dog-sitting is offered for those who want to leave Fido in capable and loving hands while you dine at one of Easton’s best restaurants. We’ve had excellent meals at Sunflowers and Greens, Scossa, Bas Rouge, Out of the Fire, and Hunter’s Tavern.
Thanks to our next-door neighbor with family roots in Rock Hall, I was intrigued enough to visit. A wintertime trip and a summer trip introduced me to this wonderful small and historic town on the water’s edge. One can still have an authentic Delmarva experience in Rock Hall sailing, fishing, crab cake eating, and perusing the downtown area. My wife and I loved our stay at Osprey Point, where we got to bring Sophie. If you go, plan on coming during the Pirates and Wenches weekend in August and brush up on your pirate lingo.
Oxford is another tiny town I fell in love with. A ride on the Oxford-Bellevue Ferry is a must, and staying at the Robert Morris Inn is a favorite for history lovers. Sandaway Suites is a romantic place by a lovely beach where sunset watching provides glowing memories. Don’t miss a visit to Scottish Highland Creamery for fantastic ice cream. Just around the corner is Capsize OXMD, a dog-friendly restaurant with great grub.
Just in case you want another tiny town to visit, I love Whitehaven, where a stay at the Whitehaven Hotel, circa 1810, is a wonderful break from our modern world. Spend your days walking or biking quiet country roads, riding the Whitehaven Ferry (free of charge), kayaking the Wicomico River, bird watching, or wine tasting at Bordeleau Vineyard. Cynthia Curran is the manager and is a great resource to help you make the best of your visit at his hidden gem. Oh, and we love it because one of the rooms is dog-friendly.
More Food Memories
Some of my favorite food memories are my visits to Piazza Italian Market in Easton, the Bavarian Bakery in Dover, and Sunshine Crepes in Bethany Beach. I met the owners at each of these gems and enjoyed hearing their stories. Way down south in Cape Charles, I fell in love with Mason Avenue Bakery, Coastal Baking Company, and Brown Dog Ice Cream, where owner Miriam Elton hand-fed my dog Sophie doggie ice cream, priceless!
What would Delmarva be without the amazing farmers? I had the privilege to meet several folks who work in all kinds of weather to bring us the gift of Delmarva food from the land. It was from a cover story that appeared in the September 2019 issue of Edible Delmarva that I ventured to Hurlock to see Pop’s Old Place Farm. That first meeting turned into a wonderful friendship with owner Darlene Goehringer. I’ve visited often to buy lamb, beef, pork, and eggs, but mostly to talk with Darlene. I learned the art of sourdough baking from attending one of Darlene’s baking classes and am forever grateful.
Recently, I wrote about Jade Farm near Chesapeake City, where I got to know Drew and his wife, Jessie. Jade Farm produces some of the best pork I’ve found anywhere, and I enjoyed a turkey I bought from them last Thanksgiving. Drew is a former chef who makes some of my favorite hot sauces.
In my article, Gaining Ground, I spotlighted regenerative agriculture and met Kathleen Moss and her daughter Hazel at Fox Briar Farm. During my tour of the leased farmland she works, I saw why her CSA is popular and was gifted an asparagus sprig from Hazel to sample on the spot. Farmers Tommy and Michelle Shireman of Third Way Farm work their peaceful farm on the edges of Havre de Grace, where they produce so many types of veggies, fruit, and meat there’s no room to list it all here. All of their delicious products follow strict regenerative and eco-friendly practices.
I’m so fortunate that Edible Delmarva saw something in me for that first issue and many more. Through that working relationship, I’ve gone deep into one of the Mid-Atlantic’s best places to visit or live. My only regret is the stories I didn’t get to tell — there are just too many to fit them all in. Consider yourself lucky if you can visit any of these places I was able to include.
Follow Kurt’s adventures @kurttravels2
Find more of Kurt’s stories on EdibleDelmarva.com
