A Weekend Away: Baltimore
Just a short drive from Delmarva across the Chesapeake Bay, Baltimore has quickly become a destination for its blue-collar roots, big-city culture, and all-around hidden gem status. It’s a town that bleeds Maryland pride, from its seafood-fueled waterfront to its fan-packed ballparks to its hallowed historical landmarks. But it’s also quickly evolving, thanks to a growing group of award-winning restaurants, trendsetting shops, and renowned art museums. Whether you’re coming for a daytrip or an extended weekend, there’s never been a better time to explore Charm City. In fact, its nickname is only becoming more fitting by the minute.
OFF THE EATEN PATH
These days, there’s so much more than seafood and pit beef in Baltimore, with a culinary renaissance cropping up across the entire city and a plethora of restaurants racking up rave reviews and national accolades. While most tourists flock to the Inner Harbor, you’ll find that the best eats reside in the quiet corners of the many quaint and cozy neighborhoods.
For those looking to fill their Instagram feeds, follow the hip foodies to Ekiben, a tiny Asian street food shop that’s a local favorite for steamed buns and rice bowls, as well as Clavel, a Bon Appetit-approved taqueria with trendy vibes and an excellent mezcal program in the up-and-coming neighborhood of Remington. After tacos, be sure to imbibe a night cap at their sister speakeasy, W.C. Harlan, located just one block away.
For more upscale dining with Chesapeake flare, treat yourself to a happy-hour round of oysters and coddies at the bustling Dylan’s Oyster Cellar in Hampden before heading up the street for supper at Woodberry Kitchen, a farm-to-table eatery helmed by James Beard Award-winning chef Spike Gjerde and frequented by the likes of the Obamas. From there, finish the night at the lovely Bluebird Cocktail Room, where master mixologists and a 1920s interior design make it seem like you’ve traveled in time.
Of course, no trip would be complete without a stop or two for crabs. For king-size cakes, beeline to the one-and-only, century-old Faidley’s Seafood inside the equally historic Lexington Market, located downtown. Here, the luscious jumbo lump meat is somewhat famous and still molded by the hands of their fifth-generation owner. For steamed shells, find a seat at a rooftop picnic table above the cozy rowhome of L.P. Steamers in Locust Point. Hot piles, pitchers of Natty Boh, and a perfect waterfront view of the Domino Sugars sign at sunset? The Land of Pleasant Living, indeed.
CULTURE VULTURES
For centuries, Baltimore has been a cultural beacon, drawing artists of every cloth—from famed poet Edgar Allan Poe to illustrious author F. Scott Fitzgerald to avant-garde auteur John Waters—thanks to the city’s underdog status and purebred creative spirit. But even today, its incredible art scene remains something of a best-kept secret, starting with its world-class institutions.
Most museums are free, like The Baltimore Museum of Art, where classic meets contemporary, with works on display by the likes of Rembrandt, Matisse, Picasso, Warhol, and Rauschenberg. Located in the heart of the city, The Walters Art Museum in Mount Vernon is also gratis, with a worldly collection that includes ancient armor, Egyptian mummies, and Grecian sculptures. Definitely make time for its Chamber of Wonders. And for a small fee, you should get lost in the outsider creations of the eccentric American Visionary Art Museum—a don’t miss landmark on the edge of Federal Hill with free movie screenings outside on Thursday nights throughout the summer.
If you’re bringing the family, let the little ones run wild at the National Aquarium, where shark pools and jellyfish pods can entertain for hours, or the Maryland Zoo, where lions, giraffes, and penguins are just a few of the friendly animal residents. On Memorial Day Weekend, parents can also let loose with craft suds and jam bands during their annual Brew At The Zoo festival. For a more refined outing, the renowned Baltimore Symphony Orchestra is a fitting fete for all ages. Come in mid-June when maestra Marin Alsop will be conducting a live score to a film screening of the iconic West Side Story.
However long your visit, you can bring some of the city back home with you, too, with high-end shopping in Harbor East (think Anthropologie, Brooks Brothers, and Warby Parker) and eclectic finds in Hampden, where 36th Street, locally known as The Avenue, features a hoard of small-business boutiques. Swing into Trohv for chic home goods, Milk & Ice Vintage for stylish second-hand threads, and The Wine Source for hard-to-find bottles and charcuterie to go. After a long day of shopping, reward yourself with a scoop of Old Bay-caramel ice cream at The Charmery, a beloved creamery located at the end of the block.
LIVING HISTORY
As one of the oldest cities in America, Baltimore is a town that constantly straddles the past, present, and the future. During a quick stroll, you’ll likely come across architecture that dates back to the 1700s beside one of the many modern construction projects that seem to be underway on every corner. Fells Point, Federal Hill, and Mount Vernon are ideal neighborhoods for an afternoon wander to ogle at historic homes.
For more formal history lessons, make time for one of the city’s many landmarks, like the star-shaped Fort McHenry in Locust Point, which helped save Baltimore (and effectively Washington, D.C.) from British invasion during the War of 1812, and also served as the inspiration for “The Star-Spangled Banner.” Take part in reenactments, canon firings, or just a scenic, self-guided jaunt along the waterfront promenade. Nearby, the Baltimore Museum of Industry also details the port city’s rich industrial history, while the B&O Railroad Museum, with real-life train rides, delves into the pioneering rail line that opened up the American west. Looking to get your steps in? Climb the 227-step staircase of the original Washington Monument in Mount Vernon for a panoramic view of the entire city. Catch your breath just a few doors down at the grand and gilded George Peabody Library, a bibliophile’s paradise.
And in the hometown of baseball legend Babe Ruth, you also might see sports history made right before your eyes. Sure, the Orioles haven’t had a winning streak for some years now and the recent lineup changes have left us a little shaken up. But there are few more fitting ways to spend a Maryland summer evening than at Camden Yards with a cold beer and crab-mac-and-cheese hot dog in hand as the Birds play ball.
SWEET DREAMS
While Baltimore is a do-able drive from nearly any point on Delmarva, a new boom of boutique hotels will easily entice you to spend the night.
To splurge, stay in the new Sagamore Pendry Hotel, an industrialchic former market space founded by Under Armor CEO Kevin Plank with maritime-inspired suites and an envy-inducing infinity pool along the sparkling waterfront. (It’s also a stone’s throw from the best beer bar in the city—or, better yet, state—Max’s Taphouse.) Rooms start at $350 a night. There’s also the even fancier Ivy Hotel in Mount Vernon, situated in a historic mansion with complimentary champagne, a verdant courtyard, and, according to Food & Wine magazine, the best hotel breakfast in the country. Rooms start at $595.
For a steal, sleep a few blocks away at the hip Hotel Revival, with vintage décor, private karaoke rooms, and a scenic rooftop bar, starting at $139 a night. The Hotel Indigo is another affordable option, with a sleek but funky aesthetic, easy parking options, and live jazz on Thursday evenings, starting at $89.
Getting from A to B, we recommend walking, whenever the weather permits, especially around the harbor and historic neighborhoods. New app-based scooters such as Bird and Lime are now available in most areas as well for a fun and easy way to get around the city. For further distances, we recommend Uber or Lyft, as parking can be unpredictable. That being said, if you have time, make sure to try the water taxis. They travel back and forth to multiple docks across the harbor and are hands-down the most Maryland way to move about Baltimore.
