Breaking Bread: Evergrain Bread Company
It’s a chilly Saturday at around 1 p.m. and the dining space at Evergrain Bread Company in Chestertown, Maryland, is almost full, with a few latecomers lined up at the counter. As I take my place in line, the sensory onslaught begins: a slight hint of butter in the air, the golden glow of flakey-buttery croissants and muffins, the fresh baguettes and seven-grain loaves, a drool-worthy pastry display. It is difficult to choose where to start the tasting.
Evergrain owner and Chestertown native Douglas Rae was introduced to the art of bread baking early on by his father. By the time he got to high school, Doug was so interested in the craft that he built his own outdoor brick oven and, even though he was in school and training hard as a wrestler, got up early to bake bread in time for the Saturday farmer’s market. The art of baking requires stamina and commitment– like getting up at zero-dark-thirty–and these early efforts helped lay the groundwork for opening his own bakery when the time came.
After graduating from Johnson and Wales Culinary School, Doug set out across the US to learn from successful artisan bakeries. He worked in Beaver Creek, Colorado followed by a stint at Della Fattoria in Petaluma, California (one of my favorite bakeries in the country) where he turned out Meyer lemon rosemary bread and other world-class baked goods. While the experience in Petaluma was good, Doug wanted one more position in his on-the-job education preparing him for running his own bakery and headed to B&R Artisan Breads in Boston.
Doug returned home and opened Evergrain Bread Company in Chestertown in November 2010. “Artisan to me means fermentation is priority,” he says. “Only through the feel of your hands can you tell where the dough is and how it can be best manipulated.” As a former chef and baker, I couldn’t agree more. When bread is mass-produced by machine, it can’t compare with the hands-on approach that Doug uses. The buzz was so great that shortly after opening it became apparent more space would be needed, and Evergrain spread to the unit next door.
Doug’s passion is bread baking, and while he concentrates on churning out his favorite artisan loaves, he has hired Sarah Deale to take on the pastries. A talented pastry chef, Sarah creates the cookies, croissants, muffins, scones, and signature items like the Buzz Bar, an irresistible blend of honey, orange, and almonds on a buttery shortbread base. I bought a Buzz Bar with the thought of taking it home to enjoy with my wife. Halfway home I tried a small bite–big mistake. Only a tiny bite was left to share by the time I arrived! Don’t miss Sarah’s croissants– they are as good as any I’ve had on my many trips to Paris–and on my most recent visit Sarah’s scones were sold out by the time I arrived around 10 a.m., so get there early to avoid missing out on your favorites.
Most of those who enter Evergrain become regulars. Kathleen Flanagan and her husband come from Chevy Chase to their second home in Chestertown almost every weekend, and are Evergrain fans. “We’re here every Saturday and Sunday morning for coffee and our favorite treats,” Kathleen raves. Their favorites, like many of the regular customers, are the Everknot and Sunbun. The Everknot pays homage to the everything bagel and the croissant–the savory combination of croissant dough with a cream cheese center is irresistible. The Sunbun is a croissant dough concoction with cinnamon sugar tempting the sweet side of the palette.
Rounding out the Evergrain menu are five kinds of sandwiches in the cold case prepared on Doug’s French-style baguettes, making this a perfect stop for a picnic lunch on land or on the bay. Grab sandwiches, baked treats, hot or cold beverages and you’re set for a deluxe meal for whatever you have on your summer agenda.
Evergrain ranks in my top ten list of favorite bakeries coast-to-coast, and there’s no shortage of locals who agree with me. Like the TV bar Cheers, it’s the kind of local place people want to hang out regularly. On any given morning, there’s a barista on duty, most everybody knows each other, and locals sit a while enjoying conversation, coffee, and delicious baked goods.
Along with skill and savvy, Doug Rae has put his heart and soul into making Evergrain a business any town would be happy to have. If you need proof, just look at the smiles on the faces of those who are lucky enough to find their way here.
Evergrain Bread Company, 201-203 High Street, Chestertown, Maryland
Tuesday-Saturday, 7 am – 5pm; 410.778.3333
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