Checking in on Le Cavalier
Wilmington, Delaware, Friday, October 23, 8:35 p.m.
On an autumn evening, turning brisker by the moment, my wife Taylor and I made a rare pilgrimage to the indoor restaurant dining world to check in on Le Cavalier at the Hotel Dupont. Chef and partner Tyler Akin is a close friend dating back to Taylor’s elementary school days, and as a former NYC-based Beverage Director, I was honored to be able to give a friendly assist consulting on the wine and cocktail list at “Le Cav”. Tonight, as the seasonal kaleidoscope turns to sweater weather, it’s time to check in and see how things are going.
Le Cav opened in late September, and the management has struck an amazing balance between ensuring their staff and guests are safe and as comfortable as possible. Masks, hand sanitizer and proper social distancing are the protocol. This, however, is a restaurant that has enough open space, design flourishes (that gorgeous tile floor!) and humming energy to provide a touch of escapism as we navigate all the challenges that come with eating out.
Much has been made of the renovated dining room, formerly The Green Room, a space with a grand legacy and even grander expectations from those who wonder if its grandest days would remain in the rearview mirror.
Not to worry. The cavernous space, once dimmed by heavy curtains and muffled by carpeted floors, now bustles with updated energy. An uncovered and gorgeously restored earth-tone terrazzo floor; a soaring bar that immediately recalls the classic cocktail haunts of New York City; vaulted ceilings of a restaurant overlooking a Parisian train station–all mingle with the scent of warmed herbs from the kitchen to create a first-impression welcome that sets a whole new standard. With food and drink to match.
Le Cav’s menu reflects elegant updates on French brasserie classics like Moules Frites, Soupe à L’Oignon, and Steak Tartare, but also invites spiced dishes from Northern Africa and the Mediterranean coast to the table. I loved how this is expressed in the new Tagine: Green Circle free-range chicken is spiced with Aleppo chili, saffron, cumin, and fennel, with gently stewed Castelvetrano olives and preserved orange. And the sustainably-farmed Branzino, deftly seasoned with dukkah--a puree of pistachio, sesame, honey and herby-spicey notes of Calabrian chili, coriander and cumin. Order with a basket of frites and a glass of Sebastien Riffault’s biodynamic Sancerre, an aromatic yet fresh Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley.
Le Cav’s cocktails are all riffs on French classics; I recommend the Rue de Paradis, a tequila- based apéro rimmed with chili. The wines being poured by the glass are ALL made in a “natural” style by the farmers and winemakers from organic farms. Each is made with respect for the natural world and, if you use a little imagination, can whisk you away to the sun-drenched, coastal vineyards where they began. Much has been made of the “natural wine” movement and the evidence is in the glass. Try, for instance, the “La Rina” from Iuli, one of my favorite producers in Piedmont–a fresh, strawberry-hued peppery red, gorgeous with a gentle chill and so harmonious with Le Cav’s herb- and spice-focused menu.
Chef Tyler and his team’s vision for a reimagined restaurant at the Hotel Dupont has certainly come to pass—a tall order in these difficult times for restaurants and a testament to the skill and hard work of his team. Basking in the glow of Le Cavalier’s dining room, it’s not at all hard to believe that its finest days lay ahead.
Le Cavalier at the Hotel DuPont
42 West 11th Street, Wilmington
302-594-3154
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Tuesday-Saturday, 5-10pm
Brunch Saturday-Sunday, 10am-3pm
