Cape Charles: A Summer Food Lovers Paradise
The sounds of osprey chirping as waves lap the golden sand beach welcomed me to Cape Charles. I looked toward town from the fishing pier jutting out into the Chesapeake Bay seeing a row of colorful homes. These old houses from the early twentieth century looked as if they were just built. As I explored the town, I found what might be the most authentic, intact historic town in America. Visitors to Cape Charles 20 years ago would have seen a very different scene.
There was a time when Cape Charles had it all. This town, founded in 1884, had a beautiful stretch of shoreline, abundant farm goods, a bustling train station, and some of the best seafood on the planet. Like many small towns, Cape Charles had trouble holding onto its economic engine. The passenger trains stopped in the 1950s and the town languished through next few decades.
I stopped in at the Ellen Moore Gallery on Mason Avenue to browse this shop specializing in local art. Ellen, the gallery’s owner, moved to the area 30 years ago and filled me in on some of the town’s history. “Back in the 1990s a majority of the homes were in rough shape.” She said. There were around 180 homes for sale and few buyers.” Slowly but surely these classic homes from the 1880s and early twentieth century were bought for pennies on the dollar, and new owners fixed up them up for retirement homes and vacation rentals.
When Ellen’s daughter opened the Harbor Grille in 2000, progress got a foothold. At that time there were few dining choices and few shops. The Harbor Grille attracted the attention of the mainland press. As the word spread, visitor numbers increased. Over the next 15 years, the home inventory shrank and prices climbed as Cape Charles staged a comeback.
Today, food continues to be a reason to visit and there’s no shortage of summer fare. One of the most well-known foodie stops is Brown Dog Ice Cream. Trip Advisor named Brown Dog one of the nation’s top ten ice cream parlors! Owner Miriam Elton churns up around 150 kinds of delicious and unique combinations, offering eight small-batch flavors at a time. On the day I visited, I tried the lemon and poppy seed, persimmon honey, and Brown Dog milk chocolate. The best part of my visit was buying my dog, Sophie, a cup of the Tail Waggers ice cream for dogs. Miriam held the ice cream while Sophie licked away, with several passers-by stopping to watch her total euphoria eating the frosty treat.
2018 was a big year for Cape Charles. Several new businesses opened to the delight of locals and visitors alike. One of the newbies is Coastal Baking Company, serving breakfast, lunch, and baked goods year round, with a few winter breaks. Don’t miss the croissants, Linzer cookies, scones, and muffins. Owners Bobby and Cassie Patel do the cooking and baking, while their twin sons Gaelan and Ghavin help out. Bobby cooks up a creative menu of casseroles and sandwiches with Creole and Indian flavors.
Another addition in 2018 was Cape Charles Brewing Company. Brothers Mark and Chris Marshall opened this brewery/restaurant in June. The day I visited, 14 beers were on offer. I tried the Honeysuckle Wheat, Assateague Island IPA, Blood Orange, and Ole’ Reliable. The Wheat and Blood Orange were my favorites and paired well with the Two Brothers Burger topped with mushrooms and sautéed onions. Try their clam chowder, ale steamed clams, or oysters Rockefeller with a beer flight.
For a more formal dinner, try The Oyster Farm, The Shanty, or Hook U Up. Both the Oyster Farm and the Shanty are on the water with indoor and outdoor seating. Sophie loved the dog-friendly deck at both the Oyster Farm and Shanty. I loved the Lemon Quarter salad at The Shanty and added the fried oysters. This was a fantastic combo as the crisp oysters paired perfectly with the citrus-based salad. The salad’s avocado, strawberry slices, fresh greens, and queso fresco welcomed the succulent oysters to this party on a plate.
Other foodie stops to consider are the just opened Bakery on Mason and Gull Hummock Gourmet Market. At the Bakery on Mason, I met owners Louise Orlando and Andrew Barbour. Louise had been baking for two local farmer’s markets but was ready for a bigger kitchen. I tried the ginger/cranberry scone, strawberry turnover, kouign-amann, and croissant. The scone was probably the best I’ve had anywhere in the world: crispy on the outside, moist and rich on the inside. The turnover was absolute pastry perfection, with the flaky crust enveloping a tart and just-sweet-enough strawberry filling. For lunch try one of the three specialty sandwiches offered on their delicious bread. One of the locals I talked to about Louise’s baked goods reports that her green olive bread is “the best loaf of bread I’ve ever had.”
At Gull Hummock Gourmet I checked out the selection of wines from around the world. They have just added a wine-tasting room in the back and will be giving private wine events soon. The variety of cheese, snacks, seasonings, sauces, and kitchen paraphernalia makes this worth a stop.
Two speciality food shops worth noting are Cape Charles Candy Co., and Drizzles, an olive oil and vinegar shop. Try the Cape Charles Coffee House for gourmet. coffee, breakfast or lunch served up in an opulent space in a circa 1910 former bank building. Don’t miss a stop at Buskey Cider on the Bay to refresh with a glass of tart cherry, peach tea or other unique cider specials.
For lodging, the Hotel Cape Charles (pet-friendly) is walking distance to most of the town’s shops, eateries, and beach. The Northampton Hotel is an upscale lodging choice perfect for couples, solo travelers, and small groups. Both of the above lodgings are reincarnations of hotels that graced Cape Charles in its heyday. For a family-friendly option, Sunset Beach Resort and Hotel is 10 minutes south with their Jackspot Restaurant right on the beach.
WHEN YOU GO
EAT DRINK SHOP
Bakery on Mason
236 Mason Avenue, 757.331.4777
Brown Dog Ice Cream
203 Mason Avenue, 757.695.3868
Buskey Cider on the Bay
109 Mason Avenue, 757.695.3412
Cape Charles Brewing Company
2198 Stone Road, 757.695.3909
Cape Charles Candy Co.
300 Mason Avenue, 757.695.1338
Cape Charles Coffee House
241 Mason Avenue, 757.331.1880
Coastal Baking Company
555 Mason Avenue, 757.331.2482
Drizzles
16 Strawberry Street, 321.747.3042
Ellen Moore Gallery
223 Mason Avenue, 757.442.0833
Gull Hummock Gourmet
115 Mason Avenue, 757.331.1500
Hook U Up Gourmet
227 Mason Avenue, 757.331.2275
The Oyster Farm
500 Marina Village Circle, 757.331.8660
The Shanty
33 Marina Road, 757.695.3853
STAY
Hotel Cape Charles
235 Mason Avenue, 757.695.3854
Northampton Hotel
1 Mason Avenue, 757.695.3750
Sunset Beach Resort and Hotel
32254 Lankford Highway, 757.331.1776
